Last year, I fell in love with a foamie. After months struggling on a 6’7” mini mal and getting increasingly frustrated with not catching any waves, I was re-introduced to the foamie by my surf instructor friend George.
Most people think foamies are only for kooks on a summer holiday. Little did I realise, they’re worth riding way longer than you think as a beginner.
They are unbelievably forgiving boards. Light to carry, super buoyant (I began paddling faster than my boyfriend), very little risk of pummelling you when you wipeout. I was out back catching my very first proper two to three foot wave riding one a board I’d scoffed at for so long.
Then summer ended. I mournfully handed my foamie back and returned to a winter in London.
Come spring, I was itching to get back in the water. I wanted my own board – and I knew it had to be a longboard.
One evening, George pointed out this gorgeous 9’1″ longboard was for sale on Twitter for an amazing price. Fluid Juice noserider, 7 years old, no dings, 2 + 1 fins.
Within half an hour, I’d contacted the owner Rebecca on Twitter and the log was mine! Rebecca was (understandly) very sad to part with her lovely board. It really is beautiful, the pencil inscription shows it was custom made for her in Constantine Bay. Later I found this really nice blog post by Rebecca of its journey so far.
Here’s a few photos of its first proper wax job overlooking Woolacombe Bay…
… and fitting my shiny new glass George Greenough fin…